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Restaurant Review: The Alden in Chamblee

Serving Sunday brunch and dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays, The Alden in Chamblee is truly a hidden gem. Their largely seasonal menu consists of modern twists on Southern classics conceived by accomplished Chef Jared Alden Hucks. Dishes are prepared with locally and regionally sourced ingredients using the labor-intensive style of tweezer placement. Dehydrated strawberries, bee pollen, razor thin sliced apples, micro greens, and red wine jelly are added delicately to create visually appealing and texture forward plates that are almost too gorgeous to eat…almost.

What shouldn’t be missed at this restaurant is the seven-course chef’s tasting menu offered exclusively at the 11-seat tasting counter surrounding the open kitchen. Order the tasting menu ($75 per person, reservations required), and you will receive small but generous portion-sized plates from the menu’s highlights with optional wine or cocktail parings for an additional cost. My family and I were treated to the tasting menu and marveled at the grace at which Hucks and his skilled team added culinary touches to each curated plate. What really impressed me is their ability to modify my dishes to be free of gluten and dairy. Because the staff is well trained to accommodate guests with food allergies, I was able to relax and enjoy the evening knowing I wouldn’t miss out on any of the seven dishes.

 

 

 

 

Now for the food. We started the meal with riptide oysters Rockefeller with baby spinach and bacon sans Bearnaise sauce and a golden beet salad. Both offered a light beginning to the night, but didn’t really highlight the skill that was to come. Belgian endive salad with honey balsamic vinaigrette, pear, butternut squash curls and candied pecans (sans bayley hazen blue cheese) is my kind of salad, one that can be eaten with my fingers, with a smooth crunchy finish.

Maine sea scallops (my favorite) paired with cauliflower, preserved lemon sauce and crispy kale began our shift into dinner. The light and tangy sauce was plated in a square surrounding the perfectly cooked scallops, tender cauliflower and not too crispy or salty kale. It was one of my favorite dishes of the night and I tried to steal my daughter’s portion. Next up was pork belly layered with apples, topped with micro greens, surrounded by squash puree. The meat lacked any deep smoky flavor and was a little too chewy. The crisp apples and puree weren’t easy to incorporate.

Not normally a fan of tuna, I was surprised that I ate every bite of the szechuan pepper roasted ahi tuna on a bed of rapini and mushrooms topped with satsuma (sans miso butter). My husband said the red miso butter pulled the dish together, but alas, it contained both wheat and dairy. But the winner of the night was the cold smoked Brasstown coulette steak with baby potatoes, black onion jam and red wine jelly. The meat was smoky, tender, and cooked a perfect medium rare with the black onion jam flavor bomb sending it over the top. While the red wine jelly was gorgeous, it didn’t really add any flavor to the dish.

Now dessert, two were served, was definitely a special experience. Their housemade very berry gelato topped with bee pollen and olive oil was divine. The gelato was velvety, flavorful and didn’t feel like an afterthought and while the bee pollen added a lovely texture, the olive oil made  the already luscious gelato even creamier. My second dessert (not pictured because I devoured it) was also very berry gelato, but this time it was served with sliced basil and topped with popped grains, sliced dehydrated strawberries and olive oil. Wow, was this an unexpected textural treat that compels me to order gelato, a typically uninteresting dessert, again.

Chef-owner Hucks has transported an intimate experience one would expect at an Atlanta-area restaurant to the suburbs, at a casual version of a fine dining experience steeped in quality and originality. We thoroughly enjoyed our dinner and will definitely be back.

Disclosure: I received no compensation for this review, but the meal was provided at no cost. In no way did this influence my opinions and views, which are derived from my personal experience at the restaurant.

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